HOW DOES YOUR TRAINING WORK? (10 min read, totally worth it).
I specialize in dogs that are overly fearful, excited, or aggressive. The first step to changing their behavior is helping them feel safer and confident in their world. We start by reducing distractions inside the home. Then, we can teach them new behaviors to replace the old ones. Without addressing their anxiety or excitement, we can't teach them because their exaggerated arousal levels block thinking and learning (just like us!).
1. Initial Consultation ($250)
What is causing the unwanted behaviors and what can we do about it? We conduct an environmental audit to identify ways to reduce your dog's exposure to triggers that cause fear, anxiety, frustration, and aggression. We go over your concerns, goals, and priorities, and I give you some exercises to reduce your dog's stress and start seeing results, right away!
2. 60 Minute Follow-Ups ($200)
After the Initial Consultation, we'd build on the foundation exercises, going from beginners to intermediate to advanced in skill level and behavior modifications, advancing in each session.
3. Adjustments along the way: I have created specific exercises for each behavior that we can adjust to fit your and your dog's unique challenges, needs and wants and we can modify the training as needed, as we go along.
*PACKAGES OF THREE 60-MINUTE SESSIONS ARE $550
WHAT IS REWARDS-BASED TRAINING?
PURSUING REWARDS, AVOIDING DISCOMFORT & DISPLEASURE.
Learning happens by going after things we want rather than avoiding things we don’t: optimism, encouragement, and the feeling of success lead to fast, lasting learning. We use what your dog finds rewarding, teaching them to “train us” to give the rewards faster and more often. It’s that simple.
WHAT IS YOUR METHOD? (Case Study Example)
Behavior change starts by eliminating the temptations to revert to old behaviors (I call this "access & opportunity"). Since we can’t control much of what goes on around us, we begin with what we CAN control, and changes there lead to changes in our dog. You dog won't learn to stop counter surfing if there is always food out and he has access to the counters. Think Homer Simpson and "floor pie". We can work up to that, but that is advanced, and we would start with a much more basic situation that removes his access and opportunity, to start, while also teaching him the new behaviors to do instead. We give him a reward similar to what he wants when he jupms on the counter, but he has to do the new protocol to get it. If we tried to start with the counters open and full of food, he'd be too distracted and overwhelmed to think and learn. ("MMM...floor pie"). We have to minimize the exposure to the "problem" and build back up to it.
Also, rather than catching the dog doing unwanted behaviors and then saying "no" and going backwards, we need to prevent it from happening in the first place. Then , the dog has reduced distractions and we can teach the dog what to do to get what he wants instead of the unwanted behaviors. It's a constructivistic approach in which we set up the scene so the dog can choose to do and build from doing the wanted behaviors to get the reward while elimiinationg the unwanted behavior as an option.
So, if we put up baby gates around the counters, blocking access, while teaching your dog to settle on the other side of the gates to get treats, problem solved. No ability or need to counter surf.
This works really well because we match the original intent with the way we want and need the dog to get what they want and need in safe and appropriate ways.
The dog also believes that he is training us. This is magic. The dog quickly learns "If I lie down over here while they are near the counters, I'll get them to give me treats!" The dog has learned it through his own figuring it out, his own weighing the choices available to him and choosing the simplest way that works, and he has also learned this through muscle memory on his own.
So, instead of being solely dependent on us to cue him to stop the nuisance behavior, and then to cue him to do the wanted behavior - only to have to repeat his over and over again his entire life, the dog quickly learns "How can I get the humans to give me what I want? I KNOW! They seem to like it when I lie down over here by the gate! Ha! I trained them!"
The beauty of this is that it also rarely needs cues after the initial sessions because the dog starts offering the wanted behaviors as his new normal default, without you having to be hyper fixated and micromanaging all the time.
I have devised and apply this exact approach to every behavior and it makes training much faster, more efficient and permanent. A dog that thinks he has figured us out is a dog that will trick us for life!
MAINTAINING WHAT WE LEARN VIA EXPECTATIONS, GOALS, AND PRIORITIES:
Throughout the process, we work on revising and adjusting our expectations, realistic goals, and priorities, based on how things are going and your dog’s ability to learn and adapt. We also expand to new, more challenging situations throughout the process, based on your goals and how your dog is adjusting.
HOW ARE YOU DIFFERENT FROM OTHER TRAINERS?
Most training involves erasing the unwanted behaviros and is focused on, and inadvertantly encouraging, the problems. Our goal is to reduce the option to do these as much as possible wile teaching the dog to PREFER to do the new behaviors as if he thought of it himself and CHOOSES to do it on his own!
ALL GOOD RELATIONSHIPS NEED COMMUNICATION, CONNECTION, AND COOPERATION. THIS FOUNDATION WORKS LIKE FAMILY THERAPY AND PRODUCES FASTER, LASTING RESULTS.
My training is like family therapy for you and your dog. The overall goal is to help you and your dog feel safe, calm, and confident in any situation. We shift perceptions and experiences, and improve everyone’s quality of life. Progress, success, and permanence depend on the effort invested in the process. The good news is that my methods provide easy, fast, common-sense answers to seemingly complex, out-of-control behaviors! Just remember: We can’t change overnight, and neither can our dogs!
WHEN CAN I STOP USING TREATS OR OTHER REWARDS? ASAP, WE’RE ALWAYS WORKING TO REDUCE TREATS. I OFTEN REDUCE THE AMOUNT OF TREATS I'M GIVING IN THE COURSE OF THE FIRST SESSION, SHOWING IT CAN WORK.
It’s up to your dog what they find rewarding, not us. We use alternatives to food whenever possible. Rewards release calming chemicals to counter stress chemicals, and can “snap” your dog’s attention back to you much faster than other options. The more you practice NOW, the sooner you can cut back! Also, this whole "constructivistic approach" means the behaviors are self-reinforcing because the dog thinks he came up with all of it on his own!
HOW MANY SESSIONS WILL I NEED? IT’S UP TO YOU & YOUR PUP!
A therapist or a personal trainer can’t give us an exact number, and neither can a dog trainer. Changing animal behavior is less predictable than changing human behavior due to obvious language barriers. And results are based on your dog’s adaptability and your investment in the work. I can give a rough estimate, and I always start with a time- and money-friendly budget, rather than over-shooting and committing you to sessions you don't need. After the initial consultation, I often advise a package of three one-hour sessions. We can revisit this after the third session and re-up if you want!
WHEN & WHERE DO SESSIONS HAPPEN?
I provide in-person 1:1 sessions Friday, Sunday and Monday from 1pm-5pm (roughly). Sessions are held at your home, my home or in public space, depending on your location, our training goals and our current level of progress.
WHAT ABOUT REGRESSIONS?
These happen in scientifically proven almost reflective behavioral science actions called extinction bursts and spontaneous recoveries. There are ways to avoid, reduce and divert them if/when it happens.The number one way to guarantee regression is to move too fast towards a reduction in reinforcers. Cut back on the rewards before the dog has learned to find it mostly self-reinforcing and, of course, the dog will go back to what used to work.
All of this works fast because your dog is an active participant in the new way. and this makes it self-reinforcing in and of iteself. they don't have to take our word for it, they think they are manipulating us! And it becomes a fun converstaion, our life with our dogs. WE both talk about waht we need and want and ways to give it to eachother, rather than a program of always taking things away. Over time, this grows. And your dog also starts to pair this new agency and indepencence while workign directly with you wiht things that used to make him paranoid and panic, meaning he might start to react less and calm down faster when activated.
Sounds like human interventions, huh? It is. And it works. For both of us. So, if you're ready to do what actually works and is easier, more efficicent, custom made and faster, contact me! I can't wait to blow both of your minds and change your lives!
"Benji started showing fear behaviors out-of-nowhere and was cowering and darting around on walks. He would freeze up and not want to move. He ran to avoid his harness when he saw us get it out.
I am a kindergarten teacher and Benji once LOVED coming to class with me. But he even started showing fear and barking and lunging at kids during and after the SIP, after not being around them for months.
Our once easy going, fun loving pup was scared of everything and it was heartbreaking.
Cyd helped show us how to help him feel safe and confident again on walks as well as even how to help him feel ok around things like the vacuum cleaner!
Since our work with Cyd in SF, we moved to LA and the move sort of re-triggered his anxieties. Per her suggestion, we sought out the help of a Veterinary Behaviorist. The combination of his puppy prozac and Cyd's behavioral modifications has brought Benji back to the joyful dog he as before he started hiding in his fear!"
Addie Johnson, Los Angeles
